「仕立て」How to Yukata Pt.3: Sewing

by

※Continued from my previous article / 前回の記事の続きです。

The final step after dyeing is to turn this 12 meter long fabric bolt into a wearable item. That of course means cutting and sewing it.

I am not giving an instruction of how to hand sew it in this post as it is way too complicated and lengthy (but maybe one day, who knows!).
Also if you like more insights, check out my previous post about Wasai – The art of kimono sewing.

最後のステップは12mの反物を形に変えることです。

こちらでは和裁や手縫い仕立てのやり方などを紹介しません。和裁に興味ありましたら以前に書いた和裁についての記事をぜひ読んでみてね。☆

自分のデザインのせいですが、今回の柄合わせは少し難しかったです(笑)柄合わせって、仕立てのとても大事なステップで、例えば二つの虎は横に並ぶと浴衣の全体的なデザイン・バランスは良くないです。

Something I can say is that the design I made was super difficult to arrange pattern wise. We call it gara-awase(柄合わせ)matching of the design pattern. Before cutting the fabric bolt you will have to visualise in your head where which part of the fabric will go and slightly tweak it so that the design is balancing well. Two lions right next to each other for example does not look too great.

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

I did some part at my sewing class with my sensei (to get started and re-confirm the steps) and then the most sewing at home.
It is a very long process of sewing several hours and I mostly had sown on about 2-3 days per week?

It took me 1.5 months to finish this yukata. I really don’t know how professionals can sew a kimono in one day!

Also again I discovered a mistake I encountered at my last kimono when I was finished – the sleeves were too short 🙁
This time I checked after attaching one sleeve and the same problem occurred. After re-measuring my arm length and checking my notes we discovered that there was a calculation mistake.
So I had to re-sew some part of the side seam and sleeve.

和裁教室で少し先生との相談の上、殆ど家で仕立てました。週に2〜3回、4〜6時間に手縫いしましたのに、結局また出来上がるまで一ヶ月半くらいかかってしまいました。プロの方はどうやって一日とかで着物を仕立てるのは本当に不思議だと感じます。魔法じゃないですか?(笑)

そして以前もあったトラブル、今回再度起こり、やっと分かりました!計算のミスでノートに書いた寸法は短すぎて、そのまま仕立てると裄は短いです。それで少し幅と袖付けの直すことは必要でした。(泣)勉強になりますね。

Here is the finished result: 仕立て上り

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

Unfortunately the dye house was working a little bit sloppy and my fabric bolts has a lot of flaws (not perfectly connected design, glue residue, diagonal lines etc.) which caused the shock for the second time after getting the wrong colour item..
I think the stencil cutting organizer and maybe the dye house have not so much motivation to create their work so that it is perfect enough like you would get in a shop? Or maybe I just had bad luck? I am not sure but due to these circumstances plus broken agreements I had made with the organiser I can’t recommend this place unless you just want to have fun and don’t care about the results quality.

残念ながら、染め工房の仕事は少し・・で、頂いた反物は少し訳あり(線は完全につなげてない、糊は残ってるところ、線は少し斜め、汚れなど)のような感じでした。それはこのプロジェクトのショック・ナンバー2でした。伊勢型紙のテラコヤの方、そして染め工房の方のモチベーションは足りなかったのか、ただ運が悪かったのか分かりません。
染め色のミス、反物の状態そしてテラコヤの担当者は途中に約束したことを守らなくなって、色々大変な思いでもしてしまいました。参加前にテラコヤや伊勢型紙の体験コースをたくさん応援や紹介したいと思ってましたが、色々なことで気持ちは変わってしまいました。
もちろん素敵な経験でしたし、そして気楽に「やってみたい!」と思う方がいらっしゃいましたら応援したいと思いますが、訳ありの作品は上がって気になる方にはオススメしません。
(手染めは完璧ではないこと、味になる部分はもちろん分かりますが、今回頂いた反物でうちの先生はでもビックリしました。)

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

Apart from this rollercoaster experience I managed to wear it twice before this summer was over and the fit is awesome!
(Don’t wonder about my hair. The green hair doesn’t really look nice with the teal colour of the yukata so I used a wig.)

人生はそんなもんだ!とも思いますので、最後に出来上がった、自分の手で作った浴衣で大変感動し、喜びましたよ。夏は終わる前、ギリギリ二回くらい着れました!(グリーンヘアーはティール色とあまりにも合わないのでウィッグにした。)

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

SALZ Tokyo Yukata

How do you like the final result?
Let me know in the comments.

Thanks so much for sharing this amazing experience with me!
I hope you will find this inspiring and I hope we can find a way to prevent these traditions from dying out.

デザインから型紙、注染、そして仕立て・・出来上がった浴衣はどう思いますか?
コメント残してみてね。

最後まで付き合って頂いてありがとうございます。本当に面白い経験で色々楽しいこと、悲しいこともありましたが、満足しました。伝統的な技術を守れたらいいなと思いますね!

Anji

2 Responses
  • Daniel Krajeski
    September 28, 2017

    It looks absolutely wonderful Anji despite all the setbacks and disappointments. You did a terrific job and your perseverance and patience really paid off. You look beautiful in it. Can’t hardly tell where the flaws are in the photos so I say it is pretty awesome for making it yourself.

    • Anji SALZ
      September 29, 2017

      Oh thank you so much for the lovely words Daniel!!
      Its much appreciated and spirit lifting 🙂
      It was a bumpy road but I learned a lot. And the result does make me happy! Thank you again!

What do you think?

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *